learningtocount said:What hands should not be doubled if you can only match your orginal bet and not the match play as well. Say you have a $10 match play coupon and you bet $10 if when you doubled down you could only add $10 to your bet and not $20 what hands should you not double down on that you normally would?
Lets say that splitting only costs you $10 instead of $20 what hands should you split that you normally wouldn't?
Most likely I think you wouldn't double on hands where you have a good chance of wanting to hit twice.
For a mathplay would it be better to play roulette with them if the roulette wheel only had one zero instead of playing blackjack? You can only make an even money bet and lose the coupon win or lose.
learningtocount said:With the matchplay I was not allowed to match it when doubling. Say I had a $5 bet and a $5 matchplay up I could only double down for $5 instead of $10. If I won the double down I would win $15 if I won the hand I would win $10. If I lost the hand without doubling I would lose $5 if I lost the hand with doubling I would lose $10.
learningtocount said:When I wasn't allowed to double for the matchplay as well I just hit my hand and sure enough I wanted to hit again after I got my card. I had an Ace-2 against a 4 a normal double but not a great double so I just hit figuring the ability to redraw would be more important. After I learned I couldn't double the matchplay I put my last coupon on roulette and lost.
learningtocount said:The basic stragedy assumes that you double for the full amount and give up your right to redraw. The basic stragedy does not assume that you double for half of your bet. Which is essentially what I was restricted to. Giving up the right to redraw might cost you more if you can only double for half of your bet than hitting should become more profitable even on basic stragedy double downs.
Here is an example of a profitable double but a more profitable hit a 9 vs a 7 will win 53% of the time if you double and 59% of the time if you hit. Why do you win more if you just hit?
The answer is simple the ability to redraw on your hand.
Doubling for less gives you the worst of both worlds. Lets take the 9 vs a 7 as are example on a $100 bet if you double down you will win an average of $12 $6 for the orginal $100 and $6 for the second $100.
If you just hit you will win $18 on the average.
If you double for $50 you will win $9 on the average. $6 For the first $100 and $3 for the 2nd $50.
learningtocount said:I had an ace-2 against a 4. With the matchplay coupon I had $5 on the hand plus the $5 coupon. So I pushed out $10 to double and it was rejected and they said I could only double for $5 so I took that back and just hit.
I got a 3 on my first hit so I hit it again and got a 10 I than stood with my 16 and the dealer hit a hand and I lost. But I was glad I had the option to hit again. I think the ev for doubling if I could double for the full amount was .5% better than just hitting.
learningtocount said:I looked up the gains for doubling down and it says that it was a small gain to double on Ace-2 against a 4 but in my situation I'm a 100% sure I made the right play.
It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!